Shane Brenny and his wife, Deanna, run the cafe after buying it and the building two years ago. It was intimidating, at first, to take over the local cafe as a transplant from Owatonna, Brenny said. But even from the back of the kitchen where he cooks, Brenny said he’s learned so much about the regulars.
The Huntley Cafe, in an unincorporated farming town near the Iowa border, is a favorite with local diners. (Jp Lawrence)
One former owner still works there as a baker, and another is a regular customer, he said. Sometimes farmers out in the fields give him a call and he stays open a little longer so they can get dinner. Other times, he feeds their kids, knowing their parents will settle the bill later.
Sometimes during Friday night specials, the whole place fills and people shift around, giving up their seats so new patrons can find a table or an old-timer can sit in their favorite spot, Brenny said.
“To keep it open, you know, even for one person that comes in all the time, it’s still worth it,” Brenny said. “It’s still nice to see even that one person, making sure that they’re OK.”
Losing a regular is the hardest part of running a cafe in a small town, Brenny said. Most of his customers are in their 80s. He’s learned to cook with less salt. But he hasn’t learned how to deal with the favorite seat of a long-time customer going unfilled.
In Dorset, a town of about 20 people just north of Park Rapids, one beloved restaurant’s revival illustrates the perseverance of Minnesotans who love their local eatery.