Born in Bahrain and shaped by her time in New York and London, Noor Murad, formerly head of the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, blends a global perspective into Lugma, uniting vibrant tastes, colours and flavours of celebration, highlighting a culture which is a testament to resilience… pic.twitter.com/VXyPJsaUiS
— Middle East Monitor (@MiddleEastMnt) March 22, 2025
Imagine a single bite of food, hand-picked with care and offered as a gesture of love; this is the soul of Lugma: Abundant Dishes and Stories From My Middle East, the debut solo cookbook by Bahraini-born chef Noor Murad, set to hit shelves this week. This collection of over 100 recipes is more than just a culinary guide, it’s a heartfelt tribute to the food, culture and people of the Middle East, infused with personal stories and an unwavering sense of love. For Murad, who rose to prominence as the former head of the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, Lugma is a deeply intimate project that reflects her roots and her journey, both as a chef and as a storyteller.
The title Lugma, meaning “a bite” in Arabic, encapsulates the essence of the book. Speaking to MEMO, Murad explains that a lugma is more than just a morsel of food, it’s a connection. “Lugma is something quite intimate that you have between loved ones,” she says.
“In the Middle East, especially my part of the Middle East, it’s very common to eat with your hands… People often say, ‘Oh, I’ll make you a lugma off of my plate,’ so they’ll hand-pick the one bite they want for you and hand it to you. It’s a form of love and affection.”
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This gesture of sharing became the perfect metaphor for her cookbook.
“There’s so much love injected into it,” she adds.
Murad’s culinary journey is as diverse as the region she celebrates. Born in Bahrain, she trained in New York, and is now based in London. As a result, she brings a global perspective to the vibrant flavours of her upbringing. Her recipes draw from the Gulf’s elaborate rice dishes and black limes, Iran’s abundance of herbs and sour notes, India’s bold spices and chili heat, and the Levant’s colourful, lively cuisine. Dishes like Springtime Fattoush, Stuffed Baby Aubergines, Slow-Cooked Fenugreek Lamb with Pickled Chillies, and Pistachio Cake with Labneh showcase this rich tapestry, blending tradition with Murad’s innovative touch.
Yet, Lugma is not just a celebration of food; it’s a testament to resilience and purpose.
The book’s creation coincided with a tumultuous period in the Middle East, particularly the escalation of Israel’s war on Gaza. Murad candidly shares how this shaped her process: “When things really kicked off, I was slammed in the middle of recipe testing. It really messed with my mind a lot because it’s such a horrific time for anyone who’s Arab or Muslim or from the region… There are people who couldn’t eat food while I was testing all these recipes.” This dissonance fuelled her determination to highlight the region’s beauty and diversity.
“I really want to show that the Middle East is diverse. It’s beautiful. It’s rich in culture and heritage,” she emphasises.
“There are so many voices that come from this part of the world, and there’s so much to say and celebrate. Our food being one of those many, many things.”
That sense of celebration shines through in the praise Lugma has already received.
Food writer Diana Henry calls it “personal, beautifully written,” noting that “Noor’s voice draws you in and holds you there — and the recipes are absolutely glorious.”
Yotam Ottolenghi, Murad’s longtime mentor, echoes this sentiment: “There’s an incredible generosity to Noor’s cooking, capturing the spirit of so many cooks across the Middle East: bold gestures, big flavours, whole universes of food around a single table. Noor is also a unique talent; her cooking reflects the essence of home comfort, plus an unmatched innovative palate.”
For Murad, Lugma is a way to reclaim and share the narrative of a region often misunderstood.
“It kind of almost drove the purpose of Lugma and made it even more strong for me,” she explains. The cookbook invites readers into her world, offering not just recipes, but a bite of her heritage, her love, and her hope. It’s a feast for the senses and the soul, a reminder of the power of food to connect, heal and inspire.
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